Log of S/V High Drama

No.16 Vanuatu

October 1, 2002

Gut blong lukyu! (Good to see [look] you!)   

     Mi glad tumas lukim yu! (Literally I am glad too much to look you!)  Bislama, a form of Pidgin English, is the national language of the Ripublik blong Vanuatu or the Republic of Vanuatu. This Log describes our adventures in Vanuatu, a South Pacific country full of contradictions and surprises. Formerly known as The New Hebrides, some Vanuatu people practiced cannibalism as recently as 1969. One island hosts a cult that worships John Frum (John “from” America?)  We peered into a live volcano, we snorkeled over $1,000,000 of US Army equipment that the Army shoved into the sea after WW ll, and we learned the importance of a namba! Once again local people who lacked material possessions shared their lives with us. While waiting for a Presbyterian wedding ceremony on a remote island we chatted with local people who fetch their water from a community well, live without electricity, plumbing, televisions, radios, and stoves. Upon learning that we are Americans they expressed heartfelt concern about September 11.

 The more we travel, the more we miss family and friends. We certainly enjoy hearing from you, even if you think that you are describing only the mundane. We welcome news about you and appreciate feedback on our website. We receive email by radio, even at sea.  Write to us at which has the best reception now, but we still access KD7GHW@winlink.org.

The Passage from Fiji to Vanuatu

          Nine-thirty represented an early start for us. Also, no wind stirred yet at that hour. The weather forecasts opined that a high-pressure area would roll right under us and produce steady 15-20 knot winds for the next 5 days. We cleared the reef at Malolo lailai Island, Fiji and headed for the open sea. Our destination: Tanna Island at the south end of the chain of islands comprising the Republic blong Vanuatu. The winds came up, first a pleasant 10-15 knots, then a lively 15-20 knots, and then a gusty 25-30 knots, then boisterous 30-35 knots. Darn! We guessed the weather wrong again! The seas continued to build on our port quarter and started breaking at about 4-5 meters. Another first for the stalwart crew of High Drama: we were green! Yes, although Ann made some Classic Chicken Rice and Mushroom Soup Minnesota Hot Dish for the trip, it stayed in the refrigerator for two and a half days. Water and crackers provided sustenance, while we joked about our latest diet fad. On the third day the winds subsided to 20 knots and the seas flattened somewhat. Hungry for a meal, we ate the Classic Chicken and Mushroom Soup Minnesota Hot Dish, cold.

High Drama’s main cockpit is in the center of the boat, and we have always been quite dry under sail. Ann was surprised one morning when an uninvited wave smashed on the port side and swept her off the cockpit seat onto the floor. She looked around and found herself seated in about a foot of water that then drained out the scuppers. These uninvited boarding waves, including one in the aft cockpit, represented another first for us. We have never had any green water in the cockpits before.

          After 3 days and 485 miles High Drama anchored in Port Resolution on the Island of Tanna. This author’s hero, Captain James Cook anchored here 224 years to the month before us, in 1784, and named the protected bay after his ship.

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