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Log of S/V High Drama

No.9-TheSociety Islands Part I: Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea, and Tahaa

French Polynesia

July 2001

High Drama tugs gently on her anchor as the wind pushes her and tidal current shifts underneath. We sit in the cockpit sipping a glass of Cote d’Rhone watching the sun drift beneath the horizon. Although we sit in silence, we share a common thought: how fortunate are we to be able to live this dream. In this Log of S/V High Drama please join us in the Society Islands in French Polynesia: Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, and Tahaa. We start with Captain James Cook and the history of his voyages here. Next we show some pictures of the Heiva celebration and the Autonome Day Parade. We comment on the influence of the missionaries, and provide some thoughts about Tahitian dance. We conclude with a collage of photos and prediction about where we will go next.

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The Society Islands and Captain James Cook

             No reasonable discussion can be held about French Polynesia without first discussing Captain James Cook, the famous British explorer. He named the Society Islands, among others, and charted most of the major islands the South Pacific. Cook began his Navy career as an enlisted man, which was quite remarkable since in the 1750s most sailors were involuntarily conscripted. Moreover, he joined at the age of 26, whereas many young men who hoped to make a career of the Navy began as cabin boys at the age of 12. Cook quickly rose in rank to master, the senior enlisted man on a ship, responsible for navigation. One of Cook’s early assignments included charting the St. Lawrence River and later the coast of Newfoundland. The accuracy of his charts, which he made using land-surveying methods, caught the attention of the British Admiralty.

            In 1767, the British Royal Society, a group of scientists and academicians, hoped to measure the path of Venus as it passed in front of the sun. If the measurement were taken from different places on earth, they would be able to determine the size of the solar system for the first time. This in turn would allow more accurate navigation. Tahiti, which had been “discovered” by Samuel Wallis one year before, was selected as an observation point. Of course, the British Admiralty recognized that certain military, political, and economic benefits would follow from increased activity in the Pacific. At the time, Spain claimed most of the Pacific (without realizing the breadth of the area) by virtue of their trade routes from Mexico to the Philippines. France had an interest and sent Bougainville on a scientific voyage at about the same time. Britain controlled much of the Atlantic, but their grip on the Colonies had slipped because of their confounded Revolution. Most of the Pacific at that time was a great unknown.

            The Royal Society the Admiralty for support. Of course, if the Admiralty were to supply the ship, they would also surely supply the captain. Cook’s map-making skills made him an excellent choice to lead the expedition. He was promoted to Lieutenant and the Royal Society also selected him as one of the astronomers to make the observation of the Venus transit.

            Cook’s scientific zeal transcended astronomy. Along with Joseph Banks, the naturalist on the Endeavor, Cook sought to learn about the culture of the indigenous people. Cook succeeded in befriending the natives on Tahiti, albeit with an occasional show of force, and was able to trade for supplies including water, hogs, and fruit. Cook realized that the visits by Europeans would forever alter Tahitian culture.

Unlike most sea captains of the day, Cook was extremely protective of his crew.  On Cook’s first voyage, he experimented with diets to prevent scurvy. Sauerkraut was one of his favorite dishes to ward off scurvy. Although Cook was very successful preserving the health of his crew, apparently sauerkraut had little to do with it. Rather, Cook’s insistence that his crew eat fresh meat and local produce reduced scurvy more dramatically than on any ship of the time.  

            But most of all, Cook was a sailor and a navigator.  We puny yachtsmen sail in and out of well charted well marked reef passes using satellite technology that pinpoints our position within 10 meters. Cook depended on a sextant for determining latitude and the lunar method (a lengthy time consuming series of calculations) for determining longitude. He sent long boats in to find passes in the reefs. The finest chart maker of the day, he continually grumbled that the explorers of earlier times did not take time to carefully chart their discoveries. Cook was one of the greatest navigators of all times whereas we only follow the dots. But still, we thrive on following his footsteps. The Tahiti we have discovered differs from the Tahiti Cook found.


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